On the eight day of Christmas...

Anchor Brewery brought to me: a stubby 12 oz. bottle of Our Special Ale 2009, a classic 5.5% abv. winter warmer.

Each year, every beer drinker has a few seasonals on their must-try list. Last year's might have tasted like a mix of dirty bath water and Red Hots, but dammit [insert brewery here] will redeem themselves this time with something delicious. More often than not, the second time around is no better than the first. I still regret that second bottle of Harpoon Winter Warmer, even more noxious than the first if that's possible. Then there are those beers that are just plain good, year in and year out -- nothing spectacular, nothing earth-shattering enough to send the beer geekdom into a rage. Just good.

Our Special Ale, no matter the year, is one of those for me, as is Sierra's Celebration Ale. Instead of reviewing them both, I'll just leave it at this: I've already enjoyed a few Celebrations this year.

Pours a deep brown with touches of red sneaking through when it's held to light. A couple fingers of off-white head sit on top, lingering around for a while. This beer smells like Christmas: handfuls of cloves and a dusting of fresh nutmeg stirred into whole wheat bread dough tinged with molasses, vanilla and red fruits. As it warms I pick up a little more pine than at first. Sweet up front, not nearly as spiced as the nose with a nice balance of malty richness and an earthy, piney bitterness offered by the hops. Flavors are really subdued, with nothing jumping out of the glass at me. Sips nicely, with a light-medium body and solid carbonation, just enough to cut through some of the early sweetness. Paired beautifully with a handful of cayenne-cinnamon candied walnuts and almonds.

This is what I want in a winter warmer. Enough spice to let me know it's Christmas, but with something in the background so I don't feel like I'm sucking on a cinnamon stick.

Only four more left! Lurkers -- I know there are a few out there, buy some beer and give me a little help. I don't know if I can hold out on my own.